I grew
up firmly believing America looks just like the movies. To me, The South-East
looked like the life in Dallas,
Los Angeles looked like Beverly Hills 90210 and the West looked just like any John Wayne movies, full of pistols, runaway
rogues, horses and dirty bandanas. There was not much in between but open lands
and people who hated all three of them.
I was
firmly convinced Americans invented the peanut butter sandwich, the cookies and
milk deal (who does that outside America?!) and the oven roasted turkey. And
they, of course, invented … the rodeo.
Also growing
up, I never took a social or political, or even a moral stance towards the
rodeo. I just thought: well, Spanish people have the bull fights, Middle
Easterners play soccer with the head of a dead sheep, and Americans have the
rodeo. There you go! Better than Russians poisoning people with radioactive
energy, I guess. And definitely tamer than the first two!
It was
not till I came to America when I realized that although they invented it (or
so I thought), you’re not supposed to really admit you went to the rodeo, or
worse yet: that you would have any desire to go to the rodeo. In America, now, people will wonder what a
horrible person you must be to condone such a bestial, brutal, coarse and backwards
custom that is simply not necessary in this day and age. An in-house tradition
denied – this was news to me.
During
most of my life in America, the rodeo was not an attraction, because it was not
very popular, I guess, in the places I have lived. But living in South West
America will draw you to what the South West still does. And let me tell you:
life here, on the ranch, is very much like Dallas. More brutal. More coarse.
And less glamorous, but just as American country as it gets. And the rodeo is
not verboten! On the contrary.
Here, it’s still a family tradition: every summer, people take their whole families,
for a whole week, sometimes, to see ranchers riding bucking horses and bulls,
little kids riding sheep and big guys lasso-ing calves. Teen girls curl up
their blonde locks and wear Daisy Duke shorts and cowboy boots to meet their paramours
over the announcer’s screaming the names of the next contestant. Little kids
lick icy cones and watch the show with noses dipped in ice-cream and eyes as
big as onions. Some eat peanuts, but corn dogs, funnel cake and cotton candy is
what’s for dinner. And some people even bring bologna sandwiches from home. And
people do say “yee-haw”, just like the movies.
And
yes, my friends, I am here to tell you I partook in this tradition this year. I
just wanted to be able to say that I have lived here and I have seen the
customs that this country and this area call familiar to them. It is the old
fashioned adage that “when in Rome …” that got me to do it. Is it low of me and
superficial? Fine. I am willing to live with that. Do I know America better
now? Somewhat. Am I happy I did it? Not sure if “happy” is the word, but yes, I
like being able to “judge” this even having seen it myself, and not with
outsider’s eyes.
Like
anything human, it has good parts and bad. The animals are absolutely amazing.
Cowboys really do take care of their horses! They are beautiful, and they are
smart! Well groomed and well trained. I fell in love with the horses, for sure.
They twist and turn and run in such ways that is graceful and amazing at the
same time. Their dance of muscles and strength is beautiful.
The
kids riding the sheep were simply adorable. They could not have weighed more than
40 lbs and they flew on those sheep backs! You also learn what the proper
position of the rider should be on the horses and bulls and what disqualifies a
rider. In the fight, if there is one, between the man and the animal, the
animal almost always wins. Almost. Except for the tying of the bulls. That was
brutal, and I could not watch it. We left right in the middle of that. I guess,
so much for me trying the running of the bulls in Pamplona next year!
I know
now that Americans didn’t really invent the rodeo – but the Mexicans did. They
are surely responsible for promoting it, though, and keeping it alive. I also
know that Canadians compete as well. I think all the various competitions in a
rodeo have stemmed from the daily chores of the cowboys on their farms. Not
sure if they still behave like this on the farms, but the craftsmanship lives
on.
Moral quandary
aside, I am glad I have first hand witnessed it. It’s history, and tradition, in a way, and for
that value I am glad I watched it. The energy as well as the patience and mathematical
exactness of the handlers were an amazing tour de force of human stamina and
even bravery. At any given point, the human skull could be crushed, but they
pressed on. And the dance of the animals will haunt me forever. I am grateful I
live this close to this (now) very American tradition and that I had the chance
to try understand it and make my own choice. Knowingly.
"It ain't never gonna be my first time at the rodeo anymore", but will this be my last?! Time only will tell ...
Click on the picture for all the shots from that night. Made me really want a new camera ...